Winter in the Hive
Martin of Aardvarchaeology asked me to write about what beekeepers give the bees to eat throughout the winter. A very good question, considering beekeeping is all about stealing the colony’s store of food that it worked so hard to accumulate.
Adult bees are all grown up: they don’t get bigger and they don’t renew tissues (to any great extent that I know of, anyway). All they need to survive is energy, and energy they get from carbohydrates - sugar. Honey contains (as I recently explained) glucose and fructose, which are derived from more complex saccharides present in nectar. The alert reader will now have surmised that honey is actually partially digested. The reader who has some knowledge of the chemistry of carbohydrates will also have figured out that the basic components of honey are also the basic components of table sugar - sucrose.
As it turns out, bees are perfectly happy to accept sucrose in return for honey. In the summer, it is common for beekeepers to give the bees table sugar, either dissolved or in its crystalline form to hives that are weak and need an extra boost. In the winter, all hives need sugar dissolved in water, as they can’t possibly gather enough water themselves to dissolve solid sugar and store it.
Practically, this means that sometime in late summer or early autumn, the beekeeper has to remove every bit of honey in each hive that can possibly be extracted. Immediately after this, one has to start giving the bees their supply of winter fodder, or the hives will start starving. There are a few ways this can be done. I give my bees their entire supply in one go, utilising a method that essentially involves a plastic bag in a box on top of the hive, filled with straw for the bees to walk on (otherwise they would drown in sugar!) and a column of air on the side so the bees can get into the box. The bag is filled with approximately 21 kilos of dissolved sugar. This is a lot more than some beekeepers give their bees. The advantage of giving the bees a lot of sugar is that there’s no risk that they’ll starve in the spring. On the other hand, if spring comes and the colony has already died, you’ll have wasted a lot of sugar. Many beekeepers therefore give the bees less sugar in the autumn and check in on them early in the spring and give them extra food then.
For ten years now my dad and I have had four hives, which has meant that simply buying table sugar and making the winter fodder ourselves has been entirely manageable. This year, we decided to drastically expand our apiary and are now the proud owners of ten hives. It turned out that making our own winter fodder was NOT as manageable anymore. Next year, if we still have that many hives, we will most likely be buying already prepared winter fodder by the bucket. Of course, this means no more fun comments from random people as we buy huge amounts of sugar from department stores…
So what do the bees DO all winter? Well, mostly, they sit around and try to keep warm. Nature documentaries are rife with the image of male emperor penguins shuffling around in winter storms, well, bees do essentially the same thing. The queen stays in the middle of the colony, and the worker bees take turns at being on the outside of the winter cluster. The drones are ostracised in the autumn and forbidden to enter the hive at all, and hence die from cold and starvation. Some beekeepers try to isolate their hives and help the bees keep warm, but most research seems to say that the bees really don’t care at all. Scandinavian stock is very adept at keeping the temperature up inside the cluster and the most important thing a beekeeper should do is make sure there’s adequate ventilation, to prevent stagnant air and condensation (which leads to mould), and obviously to prevent asphyxia.
On a final note, it’s interesting to note that bees actually seem to winter better on a pure sucrose solution than on honey. Honey contains various indigestible ingredients and given that bees can’t fly out into the cold air to relieve themselves, they end up having to store those contaminations all the way through the cold season. A common winter problem is therefore dysentery; the bees relieving themselves inside the hive. This can kill a colony if it gets bad. But pure sugar solutions, free from these indigestible ingredients, vastly alleviates this problem.
Please note that all this is about Swedish bees and Swedish beekeeping. Certain sources (*coughwikipediacough*) seem to indicate that the situation may be different in other parts of the world.

This is what I told those who actually listened to us when they asked if the honey was “real”: Honey contains two kinds of sugar, glucose and fructose. How much of each depends on which flowers the bees have gathered nectar from. Fructose will always remain fluid, whereas glucose, once the honey is extracted from the hive, eventually crystallizes. How quickly this happens and how hard the honey gets depends on the relative proportions of the two sugars, as well as temperature and other factors. For example, rapeseed honey has a notoriously high glucose content and sometimes crystallizes in the hive before extraction - pure, it can get so hard you have to carve it out of the jar with a knife.